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2020-07-16-sm-agenda-item-1-attachment-5-final-noosa-plan-2020-part-8-10-schedules-appendix
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(18) Mulch Types
(a) Mulching of planted areas conserves water by retaining soil moisture, maintains even soil temperature, reduces erosion,
compaction and root disturbance, and suppresses weed growth.
(b) Mulch should be spread over entire planted area at a depth of 75 to 100 millimetres and be kept 50 millimetres from stems
of plants to avoid collar rot.
(c) The use of polythene film under mulch is not recommended as it prevents air and moisture from penetrating the soil and
kills soil organisms. Use thick layers of wetted newspaper or cardboard under mulch in weed infested areas.
(d) Ground covers provide living mulch once established.
(e) Suggested mulch types are below:
Steep Areas or Embankments: Hoop Pine mulch
High profile areas: Forest Blend or Bush mulch
Road Islands and Gardens Forest Blend or Bush mulch
(19) Soil Nutrients and Fertilsing
(a) Soils in the Noosa Shire are generally acid, low in nutrients and well suited to the growth of native plants. Care is needed
when using any fertilisers. Adverse effects on water quality can occur as unused nutrients penetrate waterways via runoff
and by leaching into the water table. Phosphorous is especially damaging to water quality.
(b) Fertilisers can be damaging to some plants. For instance, fertilisers with phosphorus content should be avoided for
species in the Proteaceae family, which includes, Banksia, Grevillea and Hakea.
(c) Acacia species produce nitrogenfixing nodules and nitrogenous fertilisers can be harmful for these plants. These affects
can be aggravated by sandy soils.
(d) Avoid “Complete Fertilisers” on native plantings. Incorrectly applied fastacting, usually inorganic, fertilisers can “burn” roots.
Increased soil nitrogen can stimulate growth of pathogenic (destructive) soil fungi. High levels of potassium can interfere
with a plant’s capacity to absorb magnesium.
(e) Use of fertilisers on gardens in or adjoining bushlands needs care. Native plant communities are adapted to low soil
nutrient levels and increasing these can lead to heavy weed infestation.
(f) The most beneficial way to improve nutrient status is to decompact and aerate soils. Plants cannot absorb fertiliser if the
soil is compacted. If fertilisers are deemed necessary, use specially prepared mixes for native plants.
(g) Fertiliser tablets should only be added to the base of the tree or shrub.
(20) Water Crystals
(a) Water Crystals should be placed in soil that is already wet.
(b) Sandy Soils Mix 10 grams or one teaspoon of water crystals to 10 litres of water or 1 bucket of soil mixed well and added
as back fill around the plant. This is for a 200 millimetre pot. Note: Sandy Soils can also be improved by mixing peat through
the soil and watering well prior to planting.
(c) Clay Soils Heavy clay soils would not require water crystals.
(21) Watering Systems
(a) In general Council does not encourage the use of water systems, but rather prefers native plants that grow naturally in the
area and therefore do not require the use of a water system. However, where the design requires a water system the intent
of design for the watering system shall be to provide a functioning sprinkler and/or drip irrigation system that will deliver
water for optimum plant growth. Advice on irrigation design can be sought from a specialist supplier/installer.
(b) In areas connected to reticulated water supply watering systems should only be added to gardens where meters are
installed. (Note: Plumbing approval is required for a system that connects to any reticulated water service including non
NOOSA PLAN 2020 Page 24 of 99
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